Herpetological trip to NE France (and the rest of Europe)
April 17th-27th 2019
Unless specified otherwise, all pictures (c) of Jeroen Speybroeck.
Loïc and I set out to spend the extended Easter weekend in the Lorraine region in the northeast of France. My main amphibian goals were to see some Green Toads close to Belgium and perhaps (with the right amount of luck) some Common Spadefoot Toad. Both species are (very) rare in France, so we didn’t exactly know what to expect. Our main reptile wish was to find some Asp Vipers, which we considered to be a more readily achievable goal. What follows is the tale of how things got slightly out of hand. How our initial plan gradually turned into a big tour of many European countries and into a herping dream.
overview of prospected sites
FRANCE
Wednesday April 17th – some rare French amphibians
In contrast to the later to come improvised part of the trip, I had made proper preparations on where to look for Green Toad. The first quarry we visited was a straight hit, with abundant toads calling and mating. The barren pioneer ponds occupied by the toads were not the only waterbodies present – a shallow marsh held rich amphibian life as well, with numerous Fire-Bellied Toad, Marsh Frog, Great Crested Newt, Palmate Newt, Smooth Newt, Alpine Newt, Common Frog, and a single calling Common Tree Frog. The Fire-bellied Toads surprised us, as we knew only of a site 35 km away that held this introduced species. Their chorus combined with that of the Green Toad felt oddly out of place in northern France.
Green Toad Bufotes viridis
a few tadpoles
Fire-bellied Toad Bombina bombina
Fire-bellied Toad Bombina bombina - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Marsh Frog Pelophylax ridibundus
Great Crested Newt Triturus cristatus - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Next stop was a seemingly good place in the small range of French Common Spadefoot Toads. Much to our delight, we found 11 individuals, most of which subadults emerging from the soil of some small plowed fields. Great to see this species which is extremely rare in our own country.
Common Spadefoot Toad Pelobates fuscus
Common Spadefoot Toad Pelobates fuscus
Common Spadefoot Toad Pelobates fuscus
Thursday April 18th – no asps
We woke up early and started to check out several snake spots we had visited before. Probably the early morning chill sharply turned into too hot conditions, but in any case no Asp Viper to be found. We did find Slow Worm, Common Midwife Toad, Alpine Newt, Sand Lizard, Common Wall Lizard and a couple of Western Whip Snakes that were too fast to be interviewed. But we felt spring had not really started here so we decided to drive south to the Brenne area, hoping for more viper luck there. We arrived in Brenne by the time it got dark and had a productive amphibian search, with Common Tree Frog, Agile Frog, Marbled Newt, Palmate Newt, Spiny Toad, Parsley Frog, Natterjack Toad, Edible Frog, and larvae of Fire Salamander.
Slow Worm Anguis fragilis
Sand Lizard Lacerta agilis
view from Lorraine habitat - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Common Tree Frog Hyla arborea
Agile Frog Rana dalmatina
Agile Frog Rana dalmatina
Marbled Newt Triturus marmoratus
Marbled Newt Triturus marmoratus
Spiny Toad Bufo spinosus
Parsley Frog Pelodytes punctatus
Natterjack Toad Epidalea calamita
Friday April 19th - Brenne
Daytime Brenne herping. Western Green Lizard, Barred Grass Snake, Viperine Snake, European Pond Terrapin and numerous Western Whip Snakes to be found, but it took until the famous Aesculapian Snake railroad (without that species this time) to get our hands on a juvenile Asp Viper. I would say it luckily was a pretty one, but they all are.
Western Green Lizard Lacerta bilineata
Edible Frog Pelophylax kl. esculentus
Barred Grass Snake Natrix helvetica
Barred Grass Snake Natrix helvetica
Viperine Snake Natrix maura
Viperine Snake Natrix maura - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Western Whip Snake Hierophis viridiflavus
Western Whip Snake Hierophis viridiflavus
Loïc and water snake habitat
nap view
flipped a metal sheet for Zamenis but got another Hierophis
Asp Viper Vipera aspis
Asp Viper Vipera aspis
habitat
After dark, tried and failed to find aquatic Marbled Newt, but did end up in a huge tree frog concert and got a hold of a European Pond Terrapin.
European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis
European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis
European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis
Common Tree Frog Hyla arborea
Saturday April 20th – from C France to the Atlantic
Brenne also proved tough for vipers. Not sure why, actually. Herping buddy Wouter Beukema had brought to my attention that there’s Western Spadefoot Toad on Île-de-Ré and that this is “not so far from Brenne”. As the timing was perfect, we decided to go for that. But first a few other targets. As there are few chances of finding one of my favourite European snakes, Aesculapian Snake, in and near Brenne, I dug up some more likely options for this species further north, in the wider surroundings of Tours. A railroad at the confluence of two rivers seemed promising. Soon, we had two Viperine Snakes and a little later Loïc managed to dig up a beautiful subadult Aesculapian from the railroad embankment.
Aesculapian Snake Zamenis longissimus
Aesculapian Snake Zamenis longissimus
On our way west to the Atlantic Coast, we ‘accidentally’ drove through the area infested with African Clawed Frog. A few random ponds didn’t deliver, so I decided we would go ask the friendly farmers I visited back in 2007 if the frogs were still there and if we could check out their pond again. Unfortunately for the local biodiversity, the frogs are still there in full force.
catching a monster
African Clawed Frog Xenopus laevis
African Clawed Frog Xenopus laevis
By the end of the day we reached Île-de-Ré. Water frogs and Stripeless Tree Frogs were heard calling straightaway. A passing thunderstorm only offered a few drops of rain, but nevertheless our dune hike quickly delivered several Western Spadefoot Toads. After this, we moved on to sleep on Île d’Oléron.
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes
Stripeless Tree Frog Hyla meridionalis
Stripeless Tree Frog Hyla meridionalis
Sunday April 21st – south into Spain
Morning hike through the dunes for Southern Smooth Snake and Ocellated Lizard didn’t deliver any herps, as it was clouded and cold.
Île d’Oléron dunes
Wouter, yes him again, told me there was a spot for Iberian Tree Frog nearby. While driving towards it, we established that we both had time to extend our weekend trip to more than that, so we turned the car around and headed south towards the Spanish border. In the late afternoon, we arrived at a famous French site for Seoane’s Viper. Cold and too late in the day, with poor prospects for the days ahead here, so after a quick Fire Salamander and Pyrenean Brook Newt, we continued towards (hopefully) better conditions in Spain.
tasty fastuosa
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra fastuosa - (c) Loïc van Doorn
salamander enthusiast
SPAIN
After dark we explored one of the northernmost sites of Sharp-ribbed Newt. The pond was completely dry, but numerous amphibians were out, seemingly waiting for better times – Sharp-ribbed Newt, Marbled Newt, Parsley Frog, Iberian Tree Frog, Iberian Water Frog and Western Spadefoot Toad. We continued a little bit further to spend the night close to a spot for Lataste’s Viper.
Parsley Frog Pelodytes (punctatus) hespericus
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes - male
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes - female
Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes - female
female Iberian Tree Frog Hyla molleri
Sharp-ribbed Newt Pleurodeles waltl
Sharp-ribbed Newt Pleurodeles waltl
Marbled Newt Triturus marmoratus juveniles
Monday April 22nd – viper reward and salamander madness
Foggy morning, so we had to bite our nails to see if we could get hold of a Lataste’s Viper. Instead of waiting, we explored a couple of nearby sites, finding Western Three-toed Skink as an addition to our list. Back to the viper site when it just started to get a tiny bit warmer. A lot of skinks were out, so should be warm enough? Indeed – Loïc caught a viper beauty!
habitat
Western Three-toed Skink Chalcides striatus - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Lataste’s Viper Vipera latastei
Lataste’s Viper Vipera latastei
We continued north, through the hybrid zone and into Seoane’s Viper country. The sunny spells were too short and the wind too strong, so no luck with my nemesis viper species, but managed to flip a pretty midwife toad near a famous water tank.
Common Midwife Toad Alytes obstetricans
Common Midwife Toad Alytes obstetricans
coastal habitat
Western Green Lizard Lacerta bilineata
Further west we went into Asturias, getting ready for a night with salamanders. We were not disappointed – many Fire Salamander, Golden-striped Salamander (hundreds of those at a site that was new to me), some Common Frog, an Iberian Stream Frog, Alpine Newt, Smooth Newt, Bosca’s Newt, larvae of Iberian Painted Frog and many Spiny Toads on the road.
salamander habitat
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Bosca’s Newt Lissotriton boscai
Iberian Stream Frog Rana iberica
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica
Golden-striped Salamander Chioglossa lusitanica
Spiny Toad Bufo spinosus - (c) Loïc van Doorn
male and female Palmate Newt Lissotriton helveticus
Galician Common Frog Rana parvipalmata
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra bernardezi
Alpine Newt Ichthyosaura alpestris
Galician Common Frog Rana parvipalmata
Tuesday April 23th – picking cherries in northeastern Spain
I have a special thing with Pyrenean Stream Frog, so we just had to include that species. Along the way to one of the best sites for this species, we stopped at a lowland site with Natterjack Toad, Catalonian Wall Lizard and Ocellated Lizard.
habitat
Ocellated Lizard Timon lepidus
Ocellated Lizard Timon lepidus
Then up into the mountains again. Raining constantly, so the brooks had turned into crazy torrents, but we quickly managed to find Common Frog, Pyrenean Brook Newt and Pyrenean Stream Frog before drowning.
Pyrenean Stream Frog Rana pyrenaica
Pyrenean Brook Newt Calotriton asper
Further east, Loïc wanted to try for Banded Newt, a species that was introduced to a specific area some years ago. Chatting with different people, we got that people tried to get rid of them but did not manage to do so. Let’s check it out. A lot of curvy turns before we reached the plateau. The ground zero pond and surrounding stones held Palmate Newt, Parsley Frog, Catalonian Midwife Toad, Iberian Water Frog and Catalonian Wall Lizard. A closeby larger pond, however, held many Banded Newts, as well as Western Spadefoot Toad.
a skinny Catalonian Wall Lizard Podarcis liolepis
Catalonian Midwife Toad Alytes almogavarii
eggs of Western Spadefoot Toad Pelobates cultripes - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Banded Newt Ommatotriton ophryticus x nesterovi - male - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Banded Newt Ommatotriton ophryticus x nesterovi - male
Banded Newt Ommatotriton ophryticus x nesterovi - female
It got later and later and later when we drove into dense mist on Montseny. Luckily, guardian angel Wouter sent me the coordinates of a top brook. Water is hard to find underneath a thick layer of beech leaves, but nevertheless it didn’t take us too long to find a Montseny Brook Newt. More dead than alive, we went to sleep on the hill.
Montseny Brook Newt Calotriton arnoldi
Montseny Brook Newt Calotriton arnoldi
Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra terrestris
Wednesday April 24th – a leap into Italy
Waking up, we decided to add Italy and Slovenia to our adventures. First, I was hoping to see a Painted Frog in northeastern Spain, because I had failed to find this species in that area before. Lucky again, as Loïc flipped one from underneath a Natterjack Toad. Also Moorish Gecko and Spanish Terrapin could be added to the list, plus some Viperine Snake and the odd Ocellated Lizard.
as flipped – Natterjack Toad Epidalea calamita and Painted Frog Discoglossus pictus - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Painted Frog Discoglossus pictus
terrapin habitat
Spanish Terrapin Mauremys leprosa
habitat
ITALY
We were very tired from the previous night, but in slow, careful laps, we managed to reach the Italian salamander heaven by nightfall. After a tasty pizza (what else?), we went into the woods and found Strinati’s Cave Salamander, Northern Spectacled Salamander, Common Toad, Italian Stream Frog and Fire Salamander. A next spot delivered the additional Ambrosi’s Cave Salamander.
Strinati’s Cave Salamander Speleomantes strinatii
Northern Spectacled Salamander Salamandrina perspicillata - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Northern Spectacled Salamander Salamandrina perspicillata
Italian Stream Frog Rana italica
Ambrosi’s Cave Salamander Speleomantes ambrosii
Ambrosi’s Cave Salamander Speleomantes ambrosii
Ambrosi’s Cave Salamander Speleomantes ambrosii - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Pelophylax ridibundus kurtmuelleri
Thursday April 25th – a final Italian frog and onto Slovenia
After a comatose night, we crossed northern Italy to the east. Before crossing the border with Slovenia, it took Loïc only minutes out of the car to catch a lovely chocolate-colored Italian Agile Frog.
habitat
Italian Agile Frog Rana latastei
Italian Agile Frog Rana latastei
SLOVENIA
Revisited a pond for Italian Crested Newt. Despite two big fat fish, they were still around, as were Smooth Newt and Yellow-bellied Toad.
habitat
Italian Crested Newt Triturus carnifex
Yellow-bellied Toad Bombina variegata
Some viper failure and then we went to a special little cave.
Olm Proteus anguinus
Olm Proteus anguinus
At night, we tried for Alpine Salamander. Alpine Newt and Common Toad were in full migration mode, but the salamanders were not to be found.
Alpine Newt Ichthyosaura alpestris - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Friday April 26th – southwestern Slovenia and eastern Austria
The famous Stena rock near the Slovenian coast delivered Dalmatian Algyroides and Italian Wall Lizard after a while. Higher up, on the karstic plateau, a very short but sweet weather window allowed for a very pale Nose-horned Viper. After this, we tried for Alpine Salamander in the Sneznik snow, but no luck once more.
a moment of weakness
Eastern Green Lizard Lacerta viridis - subadult female
Italian Wall Lizard Podarcis siculus
Dalmatian Algyroides Algyroides nigropunctatus
Dalmatian Algyroides Algyroides nigropunctatus
habitat
habitat
Nose-horned Viper Vipera ammodytes
Nose-horned Viper Vipera ammodytes
Nose-horned Viper Vipera ammodytes - (c) Loïc van Doorn
Hard to leave again without fairly easy endemic targets like Horvath’s Rock Lizard and Dalmatian Wall Lizard, but we were running out of time. It had been too long since I saw Danube Crested Newt and I never got to see any decent-sized crests on them, so we decided to add an Austrian site before the long drive back to Belgium. First, a successful stop near Ljubljana for Moor Frog, looking quite different from the ones closer to home.
habitat
Moor Frog Rana arvalis
? Moor Frog Rana arvalis ?
AUSTRIA
Well after dark, we arrived near the Danube. First site was dry and dirty but held some Fire-bellied Toad and Marsh Frog. Google showed us a promising marsh, which was an absolute delight to wade through. Sheltered by the reed beds from the strong and cold winds, we found an abundant newt population, along with the same two frog/toad species as well as Common Tree Frog.
Danube Crested Newt Triturus dobrogicus
Danube Crested Newt Triturus dobrogicus
Danube Crested Newt Triturus dobrogicus
Saturday April 27th - the long way back
GERMANY
We wanted to go looking for some Adder or Alpine Salamander in the homeland of Laura Bok, but we had 18h of driving on our plate to get back home. So we left it at a late afternoon Dice Snake flipping session.
habitat
Dice Snake Natrix tessellata
Dice Snake Natrix tessellata
BELGIUM
After dark, we entered our home country. Before going to bed, we visited some frog sites, adding American Bull Frog, Levant Water Frog and Pool Frog as our final observations.
eggs of Common Tree Frog Hyla arborea
Pool Frog Pelophylax lessonae
Species list
1. Fire Salamander
Salamandra salamandra (terrestris, fastuosa, bernardezi, gigliolii)
2. Golden-striped Salamander
Chioglossa lusitanica
3. Banded Newt
Ommatriton ophryticus x nesterovi
4. Great Crested Newt
Triturus cristatus
5. Italian Crested Newt
Triturus carnifex
6. Danube Crested Newt
Triturus dobrogicus
7. Marbled Newt
Triturus marmoratus
8. Palmate Newt
Lissotriton helveticus
9. Smooth Newt
Lissotriton vulgaris
10. Bosca’s Newt
Lissotriton boscai
11. Alpine Newt
Ichthyosaura alpestris
12. Pyrenean Brook Newt
Calotriton asper
13. Montseny Brook Newt
Calotriton arnoldi
14. Sharp-ribbed Newt
Pleurodeles waltl
15. Strinati’s Cave Salamander
Speleomantes strinatii
16. Ambrosi’s Cave Salamander
Speleomantes ambrosii
17. Northern Spectacled Salamander
Salamandrina perspicillata
18. Olm
Proteus anguinus
19. African Clawed Frog
Xenopus laevis
20. Fire-bellied Toad
Bombina bombina
21. Yellow-bellied Toad
Bombina variegata
22. Catalonian Midwife Toad
Alytes almogavarii
23. Common Midwife Toad
Alytes obstetricans
24. Iberian Painted Frog
Discoglossus galganoi - larvae
25. Painted Frog
Discoglossus pictus
26. Parsley Frog
Pelodytes punctatus (incl.
P. hespericus)
27. Common Spadefoot Toad
Pelobates fuscus
28. Western Spadefoot Toad
Pelobates cultripes
29. Green Toad
Bufotes viridis
30. Spiny Toad
Bufo spinosus
31. Common Toad
Bufo bufo
32. Natterjack Toad
Epidalea calamita
33. Common Tree Frog
Hyla arborea
34. Stripeless Tree Frog
Hyla meridionalis
35. Iberian Tree Frog
Hyla molleri
36. Common Frog
Rana temporaria
37. Galician Common Frog
Rana parvipalmata
38. Agile Frog
Rana dalmatina
39. Iberian Stream Frog
Rana iberica
40. Italian Stream Frog
Rana italica
41. Pyrenean Stream Frog
Rana pyrenaica
42. Italian Agile Frog
Rana latastei
43. Moor Frog
Rana arvalis
44. Marsh Frog
Pelophylax ridibundus (incl.
P. kurtmuelleri)
45. Edible Frog
Pelophylax kl.
esculentus
46. Iberian Water Frog
Pelophylax perezi
47. Pool Frog
Pelophylax lessonae
48. Levant Water Frog
Pelophylax bedriagae
49. American Bull Frog
Lithobates catesbeianus
50. European Pond Terrapin
Emys orbicularis
51. Spanish Terrapin
Mauremys leprosa
52. Slow Worm
Anguis fragilis
53. Sand Lizard
Lacerta agilis
54. Western Green Lizard
Lacerta bilineata
55. Eastern Green Lizard
Lacerta viridis
56. Ocellated Lizard
Timon lepidus
57. Common Wall Lizard
Podarcis muralis
58. Catalonian Wall Lizard
Podarcis liolepis
59. Italian Wall Lizard
Podarcis siculus
60. Dalmatian Algyroides
Algyroides nigropunctatus
61. Western Three-toed Skink
Chalcides striatus
62. Moorish Gecko
Tarentola mauritanica
63. Western Whip Snake
Hierophis viridiflavus
64. Aesculapian Snake
Zamenis longissimus
65. Barred Grass Snake
Natrix helvetica
66. Viperine Snake
Natrix maura
67. Dice Snake
Natrix tessellata
68. Asp Viper
Vipera aspis
69. Lataste’s Viper
Vipera latastei
70. Nose-horned Viper
Vipera ammodytes
Species we searched for, spending from minutes for most to several hours for a few, but did not find: Alpine Salamander
Salamandra atra, Large Psammodromus
Psammodromus algirus, Spanish Psammodromus
Psammodromus hispanicus, Dalmatian Wall Lizard
Podarcis melisellensis, Horvath’s Rock Lizard
Iberolacerta horvathi, Viviparous Lizard
Zootoca vivipara, Southern Smooth Snake
Coronella girondica, Smooth Snake
Coronella austriaca, Iberian Grass Snake
Natrix astreptophora and Seoane’s Viper
Vipera seoanei.
Species we could have tried to find but decided not to, because of time constraints (including requirement of additional detours) and likeliness of success (including seasonality): Lanza’s Salamander
Salamandra lanzai, Italian Cave Salamander
Speleomantes italicus, Italian Tree Frog
Hyla (intermedia) perrini, Graf’s Hybrid Frog
Pelophylax kl.
grafi, Hermann’s Tortoise
Testudo hermanni, Red-eared Slider
Trachemys scripta elegans, European Leaf-toed Gecko
Euleptes europaea, Edwards’s Psammodromus
Psammodromus edwarsianus, Italian Three-toed Skink
Chalcides chalcides, Italian Slow Worm
Anguis veronensis, Ladder Snake
Zamenis scalaris, Western Montpellier Snake
Malpolon monspessulanus, Adder
Vipera berus and Meadow Viper
Vipera ursinii.
